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Thread: dahlias

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Wichita,Kansas
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    I guess one of the things I like about Landspro is being able to brainstorm as I write. Since I mentioned the garage I've gone out there and without aid of a thermometer ;-) made the decision that it is too cold. But, I also discovered that when they finished our basement, they left an access door to the valve that turns on/off the water supply from the water main. It leaves a triangular compartment that stretches from the basement floor to the bottom of the upstairs floor. I'm going to put the plastic bags, filled with cotton hulls and fugicided tubers on a string and let them hang in that compartment. We'll see how smart that move was come spring.
    "If I keep a green bough in my heart, a singing bird will come"




  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    northeast Tennessee
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    I wonder if plastic bags might make for mold. Maybe string bags like potatoes an onions come in? Rest of idea sounds good.
    tennessee sue

  3. #18

    storage in box

    Hi;
    I store my dahlias in a 6'x6'x30' box and layer the tubers in 3" to 4" of saw dust. treat for fungust before you cover.
    cotton seed hulls should do the insulation trick for you.
    insulate 6"to 8"on sides and top .
    I keepa small heater by my tubers set to come on when it freezes.
    I cover box and heater with a small tarp to hold the heat do not let heater touch the tarp at any time. This plan works for me but may not work fore every one .
    A root celler or basement is good to store things in if you have one.
    I have allso stored them under my house and they grew up the nexst year.

    Sincerly
    John Sweaney Zone 8
    jsweaney
    yelmtel.com

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Surrey, BC, Canada
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    221

    Place for tubers

    Cathy and all--trying to find that magical not too hot, not too cold place is really hard for most people nowadays. Root cellars don't exist for most of us, tho that's just what we're trying to duplicate.

    I have to keep my big old cannas outside the sliding glass door most of the winter, just too big to fit in the cool pantry like the few dahlia tubers in there now.

    I kept dahlias fairly warm last winter in my pantry (cool room) by keeping them absolutely dark, and very dry (in peat moss with no added water in an opened ziploc bag to keep the peat from getting all over the room).

    I'll bring the cannas inside during real cold nights, but they won't be allowed all winter, just too much mess and too warm in most of the house anyway.

    It is a problem! I think you would get colder than me, so an unheated garage won't work on some nights for you, nor me I think. Keep them on the ground and up against the heated wall of the house with lots of insulation, and they might be okay for most of the time, but bring them in if your thermometer buried by the tubers gets down close to freezing, I'm quite sure they can't survive freezing...

    Glen in BC

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Results are in on Overwintered Dahlias 4/04

    Well, results are in on the overwintered Dahlias: Number shriveled and in the trash= 4 Number with half a chance(not shriveled and firm)=1.
    What did Cathy do wrong ? I was so concerned about mold that I couldn't believe they could need a spritzing over the winter--but they did. So, I am going to try to plant my sole potential survivor. The only thing is that I never separted the tubers from the plant.

    Should I do that or can I just plunk it into the ground tubers all intact ? I really like those directions in the link from Vicki:

    http://www.dahlias.net/dahwebpg/Tube...TuberStor1.htm

    but I'm afraid to do any cutting. Advice welcomed ? Thanks !
    "If I keep a green bough in my heart, a singing bird will come"




  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Surrey, BC, Canada
    Posts
    221

    winter casualties

    Cathy-sorry to hear some of the tubers didn't seem to make it.

    I have never seen them shrivel like you've described, mine are in open trays on the floor of the cool pantry room, covered in fir bark with no water added all winter. Looking fine.

    Only problem here is that all the clumps left in the ground (only harvested a couple tubers of each variety, left the remainder outside in the ground to die) are now busily sprouting back up. They survived -12C (about 10F) for a night or two in January, quite surprising...esp. with all our winter rain which usually does in anything that can survive the cold! Most of the fuschias are popping up from the base, left outside to die as well...live and learn.

    Wichita is quite dry in winter, is it Cathy? Humidity in the area you stored those tubers??? I think my pantry would be quite humid, being a cool room connected to the house with no air circulation to speak of. Gotta be something to do with the humidity level, assuming they didn't freeze in there somehow...

    The dahlia experts all like to plant only one tuber, it makes quite a stronger plant, esp. if you're exhibiting the blooms. I would take off single tubers from your clump and plant them individually if I were you. My dahlia club/exhibitor neighbour has shown me how much better the plants are done this way...small is sometimes better, in this case a fairly small, single tuber compared to a nice big clump! I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself. You can also put them on a bright window sill to get them started before putting in the cool ground, might help to get a jump on the season.

    Glen

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yelm,Washington
    Posts
    18

    lost tubers

    HI;
    Glen has done a good job of giving ideas that work in his local area. All the information i see listed about dalias is good information.
    About the dried dalia tubers they were in an area too warm so they dried out. About cutting the tubers off the clump follow the information in the dalia link and you should get buy ok.

    Sincerly
    John Sweaney zone 8
    John Sweaney Zone 8

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Zone 9a - Gulf Coast
    Posts
    9,934
    I used to dig them up every year, and I think I lost more doing that then what I would have saved by just leaving them alone, more because of neglect and time constraints than anything else.

    I am curious about Glen says, though. Maybe, I should divide them every year and replant them.

    Mine typically overwinter fine by just digging them up and leaving them in an airy place in the patio, but I would much rather leave them in the ground.... Perhaps, it would be better to divide them and replant. I know they do fine here if left in the ground, but I would like to encourage more blooms

    Keep me posted!!!! I haven't put near as much effort into these as they deserve.
    Ann B.
    Zone 9a
    Gulf Coast


  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Wichita,Kansas
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    Thanks for the ideas. Ann, also with Glen's idea of planting individual tubers my loss doesn't seem as much; I'll end up with more than I lost(if they grow)
    "If I keep a green bough in my heart, a singing bird will come"




  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Western Michigan near Muskegon
    Posts
    1,462

    I have to

    Hi All,
    Reading this post, makes me get up and go check my tubers.

    Having 2 different tuber types, the fat ones made it the skinny ones didn't. Not sure which is which but remember reading slender types are cactus flowered. (please correct me if I'm wrong! thanks) My last frost date isn't until May 1-15, but the tubers are sprouting. So I'm going to plant them and hope we don't get a hard freeze. If they do get frosted will the new growth die and be replaced with new?

    Hopefully I can learn something from this experience. As there would have been alot of plants once seperated. Do you seperate them in the fall after digging or can you now?

    Stored them double bagged (brown) with pine bedding (for small animals) layering the tubers. Stored them where is was approximately 40 degrees.
    Happy Growing,
    Vicki in West. Mich.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Wichita,Kansas
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    Found this additional info at the link below(I found the part about how to make the 'eyes' appear of particular interest and it is in the context of at least starting them in pots as Glen suggested):

    Bring the tubers out of storage in March or April and locate eyes on each tuber. With a sharp knife, divide the tubers with a portion of crown attached, so that each piece has an eye. If eyes are not evident, place the tubers in moist leaf mold, peat, or soilless mix. In a week or two the eyes will appear. Pot the divisions in a sterilized, soilless mix or porous potting soil with the crown above the potting medium. Provide the potted divisions with maximum sunlight and a temperature of about 55 degrees F. Water when the potting mix dries to a depth of one inch. Good ventilation will help prevent disease.

    http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1245.html
    "If I keep a green bough in my heart, a singing bird will come"




  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Wichita,Kansas
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    Finally got that remaining Dahlia in the ground today. I had spritzed it a couple of weeks ago and it had some vertical shoots(and green at that-in the dark) when I unwrapped it today. I couldn't figure out what was an eye and just stuck the whole thing in the ground-LOL. I wish more than that 1 had survived the winter.
    "If I keep a green bough in my heart, a singing bird will come"




  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yelm,Washington
    Posts
    18

    hahlias & thanks

    Hi ;
    I want to thank you for your help last fall,your help with the potatoe digger led me to the information i needed.
    Dazed Lily your help was great !
    I now have a potato digger plan and i built a hiller too,it can be used for planting potatoes & dahlias i planted all my dahlias in 4 HR. and three days getting them ready.
    Thank you again! The planting needed three people,driver & 2 people planting.
    John Sweaney Zone 8

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