Air pruning and related growing methods

[sewfarsewgood]

About a week to 10 days ago over on Freeplants there was a discussion of root pruning in young plants with a system called Spin-Out which is a coating that contains Copper Hydroxide which is applied to the inside of nursery pots. This copper compound kills the root tips when they touch it, thus performing essentially the same function on the roots of a developing plant that pruning accomplishes on the branches - namely it causes root growth through branching. Unfortunately this discussion died before any real information was discussed. What Spin-Out apparently does is make the root systems of container grown plants much more dense and fibrous - a GOOD THING!!!! - as better root systems mean less transplant and later environmental shock.

There was also the start of a discussion of another process called air pruning. This process uses air to accomplish the same thing that the copper does in Spin-Out. I have recently purchased 2 black walnut trees of a new and superior variety that has thin shelled and easy to shell black walnuts. What is really interesting is that these trees have been grown in the process of air pruning the roots and as such have large fibrous root systems andd NO TAP ROOT. In many trees such as Black Walnut, Pecan, and others long tap roots on the grown out stock make planting these trees extremely hard. Air Pruning stops the tap root growth, gives the plant a better root system and significantly increases the survival rate of the trees when transplanted. Air Pruning seems easy to do.

I'll post more on how to do it, if anyone is interested in more.

Gary J

[Ann B.]

The company that makes the air pruning pots purchased the Spin Out manufacturing plants and shut them down.

To learn more about Spin Out you can go to:

www.nurserysupplies.com

Wish I could remember the name of the other company, but I can't. Guess I will have to ask around...

Maybe someone else knows...

[Glen in BCz7]

Gary and all-what to do with those taproots is interesting.

The current thinking really leans toward pruning the taproot, and encouraging lots of laterals in seedlings early on. Oaks are another tree that come to mind-really strong taproot, but in cultivation it inevitably gets crooked and carrot like, not much good for anything.

I do experience the advantage of the taproot every year growing celery, Bob. The transplanted celery plants are way ahead of direct seeded plants at first, but they inevitably have lost their beautiful big taproots. The direct seeded celery is ready about a month later, but is so gorgeous we just ignore the earlier plants once the later crop starts to produce. Just as an aside, I've found celery really easy to grow once I switched to the direct seeding for most of our crop-as everybody says its a heavy feeder and loves moisture-and both of these requirements are met very well by a plant with a natural taproot. They just sail along, and produce that tender, juicy stalk without so much babying.

If there was a way to get the forest plantings to develop good taproots (e.g. sowing seeds in place, like natural seeding)that would be an advantage. Doesn't seem possible in cultivated seedlings, tho, so the work on air and copper pruning has developed. The seedlings produced by guys like Heritage seedlings in Oregon should give about a years jump on the old bed grown barerooted seedling, thanks to the really dense rootballs.

Nice to be back on this board, guys. Catch you again soon--Glen in BC

[sewfarsewgood]

Many trees and some shrubs are not available to many homeowners due to the depth of a taproot and the shallowness of their soil. Here in the Southwest, hurricanes are not a big problem, tornados maybe - but if they are hit by a tornado then the tree, taproot and all are going to be gone.

Air pruning the taproot and thereby increasing the massiveness of the root system will allow many people to have the oaks, the pecans, the walnuts, and a shrub as simple as the Texas Mountain Laurel, be able to successfully transplant it. I was very limited in where I could plant the couple of Pecans I have on my property - not because I wasn't willing to irrigate the tree, but because the trees come with such a long taproot that unless you live in a stream valley with DEEP rock free soil, you can't dig far enough down to adequately plant the tree. Pecans in pots are in pots that are about 40 inches deep and very narrow. Even the auger on my tractor goes down only about 38 inches and only then when I hit no rock or caliche. If the pecans I have could have been air pruned then they would have only needed to be planted 2 feet deep vs 4 feet deep. I also have noticed in the research that the suvivability of transplanted trees is much greater in air pruned trees (those that have deep taproots).

As for lumber, I would plant just normal black walnut seeded in place, with no thought or minimal thought given to the nuts - they are all equally a pain in the &*%$ to crack. For nuts I am thankful for the air pruned ones that will let the tree grow well and bear the good thin shelled nuts, even on my property.

As for the Texas Mountain Laurel they are equally difficult to plant and transplant because of their taproot. If I can eliminate the taproot and make for a more suvivable shrub, then I have a potential selling popint for landscapers and homeowners.

Air pruning has its place in the world - not for everything. I am interested in the potential uses of the technique.

[shepp]

here is a link after you read this best practices you can decide for your self if its to your advantage!!!

http://www.rootmaker.com/management.html

[Gene]

I found this site ,A nursery that talks alittle bit about the air pruning pots and set up

www.backyardtrees.com