Shari of SC
09-11-2002, 05:14 PM
My method for growing daylilies from seed
About six weeks after the selected “early bloomers” are hybridized by hand pollination, the fresh seeds are ready to be gathered. Beginning in June here in coastal S.C., as soon as each seed pod turns light green and the top begins to crack, I harvest and immediately plant the seeds ½ inch deep in 1½ gallon pots of enriched garden soil. After watering well, I place the pots in a sheltered area at the back of my garden. This space gets morning sunlight and dappled afternoon shade. Other than occasional watering, and monthly application of a systemic insecticide/fungicide (made for roses) they need little attention from me until fall.
I do not use commercial potting soil or soil-less mix for my daylily seedlings. In this Southern garden, enriched garden soil (1 part compost and 1 part sandy S.C. dirt) has better composition and heftier texture. It seems to encourage better root structure, plant development, and sturdier, healthier plants. Interaction with the natural microbial activities of soil organisms is life sustaining for plants; so I try to give them a beginning reasonably close to what nature would provide for them. Another reason for not choosing commercial potting mix, is the unnecessary expense involved in using it for the hundreds of potted seedlings that I grow each year. My money is better spent gracing the garden with a great plant cultivar.
I plant the seeds directly into 1½ gallon pots several reasons. First, since my daylily hybridizing activity is an extensive hobby, I end up with more plants than I keep. Having them growing in containers allows easier evaluation and separation of “keepers” from those which will be going to a new home. Second, I lack time, facilities, and space for the seed soaking, sprouting, pricking out, potting into little containers, repotting into larger containers, growing under lights, etc. When I used this method, I found it far too time consuming and labor intensive. More importantly, each uprooting of seedlings caused a setback in growth development or sometimes loss of a seedling. By simply adjusting the timing and method of seed planting, in this Southern garden all of that work is unnecessary. It’s more fun to enjoy the garden while sipping lemonade in the shade.
As the seeds are planted, I label each pot with an tag identifying both the pod and pollen parent and noting the date planted. This information is very valuable later when evaluating the seedlings. Good record keeping is essential to hybridizing and allows the tracking of mistakes as well as successes so that time and resources are not wasted on efforts that will have little chance for success.
The seeds begin to sprout about a week after planting. Some pop up quickly and others take several weeks to emerge. About two percent of the seeds will produce albino plants that cannot survive past growing the first several leaves, since these white sprouts lack the ability to make chlorophyll. (The percentage of albino seedlings is usually higher when the plant is pollinated with its own flowers.) About one percent of the other sprouted seedlings will not be genetically vigorous enough to survive on their own. The seed amazingly provides enough energy and nourishment to not only germinate, but also produce several leaves as is witnessed in the albinos before they wither and die. Occasionally some seeds will not germinate until spending some time in cold temperatures. These late-comers surprisingly pop up the next spring near their more mature siblings. All things considered, I obtain 90 to 95 percent successful germination and plant survival using this direct planting method.
In late October or early November, I prepare to “winter-protect” the seedling bed to ensure blooms from many of these youngsters next year. First, I place 2 liter soda bottles filled with water between the pots to keep the temperature more constant. Next, using lengths of bendable PVC pipe, I create a hoop frame over the bed, spacing about 36 inch between each hoop. I then measure and prepare a cover made of several layers of plastic. This cover will be ready to put into place as soon as night temperatures go down to 36 degrees. When the cold weather arrives, I place the cover over the bed of potted seedlings and water bottles. I secure the bottom of the plastic sheet with concrete blocks. The cover can then be easily lifted when the temperature gets too warm and when the seedlings need water or attention. Since I have no greenhouse, this method works well for me.
The hardest part of this method is waiting for spring while anticipating the appearance of these new flowers.
Happy Gardening! :)
Shari
About six weeks after the selected “early bloomers” are hybridized by hand pollination, the fresh seeds are ready to be gathered. Beginning in June here in coastal S.C., as soon as each seed pod turns light green and the top begins to crack, I harvest and immediately plant the seeds ½ inch deep in 1½ gallon pots of enriched garden soil. After watering well, I place the pots in a sheltered area at the back of my garden. This space gets morning sunlight and dappled afternoon shade. Other than occasional watering, and monthly application of a systemic insecticide/fungicide (made for roses) they need little attention from me until fall.
I do not use commercial potting soil or soil-less mix for my daylily seedlings. In this Southern garden, enriched garden soil (1 part compost and 1 part sandy S.C. dirt) has better composition and heftier texture. It seems to encourage better root structure, plant development, and sturdier, healthier plants. Interaction with the natural microbial activities of soil organisms is life sustaining for plants; so I try to give them a beginning reasonably close to what nature would provide for them. Another reason for not choosing commercial potting mix, is the unnecessary expense involved in using it for the hundreds of potted seedlings that I grow each year. My money is better spent gracing the garden with a great plant cultivar.
I plant the seeds directly into 1½ gallon pots several reasons. First, since my daylily hybridizing activity is an extensive hobby, I end up with more plants than I keep. Having them growing in containers allows easier evaluation and separation of “keepers” from those which will be going to a new home. Second, I lack time, facilities, and space for the seed soaking, sprouting, pricking out, potting into little containers, repotting into larger containers, growing under lights, etc. When I used this method, I found it far too time consuming and labor intensive. More importantly, each uprooting of seedlings caused a setback in growth development or sometimes loss of a seedling. By simply adjusting the timing and method of seed planting, in this Southern garden all of that work is unnecessary. It’s more fun to enjoy the garden while sipping lemonade in the shade.
As the seeds are planted, I label each pot with an tag identifying both the pod and pollen parent and noting the date planted. This information is very valuable later when evaluating the seedlings. Good record keeping is essential to hybridizing and allows the tracking of mistakes as well as successes so that time and resources are not wasted on efforts that will have little chance for success.
The seeds begin to sprout about a week after planting. Some pop up quickly and others take several weeks to emerge. About two percent of the seeds will produce albino plants that cannot survive past growing the first several leaves, since these white sprouts lack the ability to make chlorophyll. (The percentage of albino seedlings is usually higher when the plant is pollinated with its own flowers.) About one percent of the other sprouted seedlings will not be genetically vigorous enough to survive on their own. The seed amazingly provides enough energy and nourishment to not only germinate, but also produce several leaves as is witnessed in the albinos before they wither and die. Occasionally some seeds will not germinate until spending some time in cold temperatures. These late-comers surprisingly pop up the next spring near their more mature siblings. All things considered, I obtain 90 to 95 percent successful germination and plant survival using this direct planting method.
In late October or early November, I prepare to “winter-protect” the seedling bed to ensure blooms from many of these youngsters next year. First, I place 2 liter soda bottles filled with water between the pots to keep the temperature more constant. Next, using lengths of bendable PVC pipe, I create a hoop frame over the bed, spacing about 36 inch between each hoop. I then measure and prepare a cover made of several layers of plastic. This cover will be ready to put into place as soon as night temperatures go down to 36 degrees. When the cold weather arrives, I place the cover over the bed of potted seedlings and water bottles. I secure the bottom of the plastic sheet with concrete blocks. The cover can then be easily lifted when the temperature gets too warm and when the seedlings need water or attention. Since I have no greenhouse, this method works well for me.
The hardest part of this method is waiting for spring while anticipating the appearance of these new flowers.
Happy Gardening! :)
Shari